Survey the Yard: Make note of tree limbs that
should be removed or cabled, especially those that overhang structures.
Hire an arborist to maintain large trees. Cut down last year’s perennial
foliage, and toss it into the compost pile. Rake mulch from beds
planted with bulbs before foliage appears, and refresh mulch in other
planting areas after soil warms. Check fences, steps, and pathways for
disrepair caused by freezing and thawing.
Prune Trees and Shrubs: Remove dead, damaged, and
diseased branches from woody plants. Thin and trim summer-blooming
shrubs such as spirea, hydrangea, and hibiscus. Prune cold-damaged wood
after plants resume spring growth. Prune spring-blooming shrubs and
trees such as lilacs and forsythia after flowering.
Take a Soil Test: Check soil pH with a home soil-
test kit, taking several samples from different planting areas for an
accurate reading. Enrich soil as necessary.
Prepare New Beds: Clear the planting area as soon
as soil can be worked, removing sod or weeds and debris. Spread a 4-inch
layer of compost or well-rotted manure and any amendments over soil,
and cultivate it to a depth of 10 to 12 inches with a spading fork.
Plant: Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and
perennials such as hostas and daylilies by early spring. Choose a cool,
cloudy day if possible. Transplant container-grown plants anytime during
the growing season; be sure to water them thoroughly.
Fertilize: Apply balanced fertilizer (16-16-16 or
5-1-5), or other soil amendments recommended by soil-test results around
trees and shrubs when new growth appears. Spread high-acid fertilizer
and pine-needle mulch around acid-loving shrubs like azaleas and
hollies. Begin fertilizing perennials when active growth resumes.
Mulch Beds: Apply a 2-3” layer of shredded pine mulch to help maintain moisture, decrease weed growth and improve soil conditions.
